Raw Dish!

By Stephen Parker, October 9, 2010

Several weeks ago when I was in the midst of a cooked food relapse, a friend invited me to her home for dinner -several weeks in advance. She isn’t a practicing raw foodist but she is a southerner who knows how to cook.  A week before our dinner date I had pulled myself up by the bootstraps and climbed back onto the raw food wagon.  Being newly back in the groove with raw food, I contemplated the navigation of staying raw at the upcoming cooked food dinner party and I was feeling vulnerable.  I felt like I couldn’t afford to fall off the raw wagon and I didn’t want to risk it.

I discussed my concern with my friend and being the gracious southern lady that she is, she agreed to skip cooking dinner at her home and she agreed to have dinner at a raw restaurant.   Pure Food & Wine (Pure) is Manhattan’s best tablecloth all raw restaurant and since my friend delights in fine dining experiences I knew that Pure would be the perfect choice for her first foray into raw cuisine. I had a moment of concern when one of her friends declined to join us for dinner because he had been to Pure a few times and although he enjoyed the meal, it didn’t agree with his digestive system afterwards.  The food can be surprisingly rich; I’ve had similar experiences myself but they have never prevented me from going back.  My main concern in this instance was that I didn’t want any bad press to negatively color my friend’s excitement and expectation of having a delicious raw dining experience.

When we arrived I was very glad that the October temperature was warm enough that we could be comfortably seated in Pure’s outside patio.  It’s a spacious serene airy cloister hidden behind century old brick town homes east of Union Square.  The setting was perfect for my friend’s first Pure Food and Wine experience.

As it turned out my friend’s friend joined us for a pre-meal glass of wine and we started off by ordering a bottle of organic Pinot Grigio and it was for the comfortable outdoor October evening atmosphere.  My friend was eager to have something to nibble on and the waiter brought us an order of Manna bread.  I wasn’t aware that Pure served Manna bread and since it’s not raw, I was surprised.  Manna bread is sprouted grain formed into a small unleavened loaf and baked at a low temperature.  My friend didn’t care for it, but her friend liked it.  I tried a small bite and I liked it, but I can understand how the texture and flavor might be too earthy for someone who is not accustomed to it.

Our dinner turned out to be very good –I thoroughly enjoyed my meal.  I ordered the King Oyster Mushroom Scallops for my first course.  They were served in a light and flavorful savory sauce and were very satisfying.  They were mildly tough, but delicious -I would order them again.  My second course was the ravioli.  I felt concerned when the plate was set in front of me because at first glance, it appeared to be a pool of creamy white sauce with no ravioli.  I was pleased to find the most delicious raw ravioli hiding beneath the sauce.  The sauce was reminiscent of cooked Alfredo sauce and the ravioli filling was a creamy nut cheese.  All was seasoned perfectly. My only suggestion to the chef would be to place the ravioli on top of the sauce for a better presentation and also so the flavor of the ravioli is not overwhelmed by the sauce.

My friend’s second course is a Pure favorite of mine, the Sweet Corn and Cashew Tamale with the molé sauce.  She thoroughly enjoyed it as well. The presentation is just right with the tamale filling wrapped and tied in corn husks.  The tamales are served slightly warm and have a comfort food effect without leaving you feeling stuffed.  The raw cacao molé sauce is the perfect accompaniment. 

We shared a dessert, the raw chocolate tart.  It was perfect for me, soft, warm, rich and chocolaty, with the right balance between chewy and gooey.  My companion thought it was a bit too salty for her taste but the salt didn’t distract me and I’m usually very sensitive to salted food.

For me, the entire meal was just right, no disappointments.

As always the staff was very attentive.  Our glasses were never left to sit empty.  Dishes were cleared with ease and everyone was friendly.  The restaurant seemed busy but it never seemed full while we were there and I was surprised since this was a Saturday night.  I’m comparing this to my last visit a couple of months ago on a week night when the restaurant was packed.  I expected it to be busier on a beautiful October Saturday evening.

Raw people sightings included Doug Evans from Organic Avenue as well as Pure Food and Wine proprietor, Sarma Melngailis, looking as beautifully blonde as ever.  Sarma is one woman for whom dumb blond jokes would never ever apply.  The on-going success of Pure and One Lucky Duck is a  testament to the fact that Sarma is one smart (raw) cookie!

Pure Food and Wine

17 Irving Place,

New York, New York 10003

212-447-1010

Web: http://www.oneluckyduck.com/purefoodandwine/